The alarm clock goes off. It is pitch dark outside. I am tired. I want to continue sleeping. It is 5:30am. Unnecessarily and ridiculously early. If I just have breakfast at The Banff Centre, I can turn over to sleep for at least another hour and still make it for my 8:15am meeting. Yesterday however, their lunch and dinner was so mediocre that I don't trust them with breakfast either. Furthermore, I don't want breakfast from big pots standing forever around a buffet, I want freshly prepared stuff served to me individually. Flashback to the night before. The plan for this morning was to go to Bruno's for breakfast, starting at 8am and skipping the first talk at the meeting. For that to be a valid option, Bruno's better be good. They better be the best. While some reviews on the internet seem to suggest that, there are also a lot of really bad reviews for the place. Most notably they claim extremely slow service. Indeed, when I walked by shortly after 8 yesterday morning they did not look very busy. Not worth the risk.
So, rather than going to bed straight last night I did a bit of research. Frommer's online guide has very blunt advice for anybody trying to find edibles in Banff: Go to Safeway for groceries and prepare your own food since Banff is an overpriced tourist trap. Well, thanks for the advice, but you're not being helpful... There are other options, such at Melissa's opening at 7am to mixed reviews, but the one option that sticks out as most extravagant is the Bow Valley Grill at the Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel (The Fairmont, Banff Springs, 405 Spray Avenue, Banff, Alberta, Tel. 1-866-540-4406 or 403-762-2211, Email banffsprings@fairmont.com, Website http://www.fairmont.com/banffsprings/), which opens at 6:30am for breakfast. The idea of marveling at sunrise over breakfast is very attractive.
The Bow Valley Grill is the only joint in the hotel to be open for breakfast, and it is praised highly in their website: “Join us for breakfast and enjoy the sunrise over the Fairholme Mountain Range. Our breakfast buffet includes a spectacular array of fresh fruits, omelets made to order, yogurts, freshly baked breads and more. Or enjoy all of your traditional favourites from our a la carte menu.” (http://www.fairmont.com/EN_FA/Property/BSH/GuestServices/Restaurants/BowValleyGrill.htm) The breakfast buffet sets you back $27, but they also have a more expensive brunch buffet later on during the weekend. Since I am going on a Tuesday, this is not a consideration. Uh, one more thing from the website: “Dress Code: Resort casual (no ripped jeans or exercise wear)”. Out of bed I roll!
I have to make my way down the mountain in the dark, partially because it is quite a walk to the hotel (I am estimating about half an hour) and partially because enjoying sunrise over breakfast is part of the plan. Luckily, the path is mostly lit, so it is easy to hit the stairs. The only exception to that is the stretch along the cemetery. Its a bit tricky not to slip or fall over one of the roots (and I am not exactly wearing hiking boots either...), but I understand that not lighting the path adjacent to the cemetery may have to do with respect for the dead. After all, I don't want to have to sleep all the time with the lights on either. Fortunately, I walked this way during daylight yesterday, so at least I know what I am doing and where I am going. As I am crossing town, a very dim light at the horizon foreshadows from behind which mountain the sun will rise. I cross the Bow river and start walking towards the hotel. The Fairmont is spectacularly lit.
The dawn intensifies on the horizon, and I start rushing to make it to table by sunrise. The exterior and interior architecture of the hotel is spectacular, but I have no time for this. At the entrance to the restaurant I am held up by a sign telling me to wait to be seated and a stern attendant enforcing it. She notes my last name and wants to know my room number. I don't stay in the hotel, but she remains friendly and points me to a couch where I should wait for somebody to guide me to the table. It is quarter to seven now and outside it is getting lighter by the second. Will I make it to table by sunrise? I share my excitement with an older couple also waiting for service. They synchronously give me an odd look. They stayed at the hotel, but have to catch an early shuttle. That's why they're up already at this ungodly hour. They have never had breakfast down here during their stay and they don't sound like they particularly care about the sunrise.
Finally, an accurately uniformed woman approaches me and addresses me by my last name. Inevitably I check for any leftover name tags from my meeting, but I have been as prudent as ever taking them off in public. Apparently, there is a little piece of paper holding all relevant information about me that is being handed from server to server that will accompany me during my breakfast experience. I get a tour of the extensive number of buffet stations stretching along one side of a large, beautifully decorated and splendidly lit room. The window front is at the far side, but I am refused a seat anywhere near or even halfway to the windows, because “those are tables of 4, and this is the closest I can get you.” Due to the lighting in the room and various big columns I can see very little of the sunrise.
Can I trade being addressed by name for a window seat? Apparently not. This place is turning over a large volume of tourists who don't particularly care about sunrises. They should remove that bit from their website! On the other hand, I should be grateful for what I got. At least I get a little glimpse of the light outside. According to the story told to us by the shuttle driver on the way here on Sunday, when they first built the hotel they built it the wrong way around, so the kitchen had the beautiful view and the dining room faced the stables. Luckily the old hotel burned down at some point or something and they got to build it right the second time around. The waitress arrives at my table right away and magically already knows me by name, although she is struggling a bit to pronounce it. She tells me to go off and get started on the buffet. The idea of taking a look at the menu does not resonate with her at all. It's all the same stuff and in the end the same price, she argues. The second let-down within minutes! It is a mass-feeding place for tourists after all.
An Asian tour group is filing in and I better get a head start on the buffet! And the buffet is good. For $27 one gets many stations with a very good selection of different foods. They are ready for a wide variety of cultural preferences, including cold cuts, hot items, raw eggs and other ingredients apparently for some kind of Asian-style breakfast. My first plate is accumulating bison sausage, pork sausage, Canadian back bacon, and cubed fries. I can't locate regular bacon and I only find scrambled eggs and poached eggs, so I am a bit out of my regular comfort zone. If they have everything, there's gotta be a way to track down eggs over-easy. Finally I decide to bug the guy at the omelet station. Sure enough, he is a nice guy and happily cracks two fresh eggs into his pan. He doesn't know my last name - that would have been creepy - but makes pleasant chit-chat. He also doesn't understand why anybody would make a big deal about the sunrise. He nicks one yolk and offers to re-do my eggs, but I decline because I would feel bad about tossing out two perfectly good eggs over such a small glitch. Somehow two eggs over easy with one yolk in an accident are a local specialty in Banff (see yesterday's entry), and one should not say 'No!' when invited to try local specialties.
Back at my table, I have a bit of a hard time flagging down some coffee and orange juice, but eventually I succeed. It does not take me long at all to empty my first plate. The bison sausage is absolutely delicious (glad I didn't find the bacon), although the pork sausage is not as spectacular. Eggs are great and the potatoes an acceptable accompaniment. The eggs in a sense are quite remarkable, the yolks being bright orange. Not yellow, I'm talking Orange with a capital 'O'. I am sure they meant to be looking like they came from happy chicken, but maybe this went a little bit to far. Knowing somebody in the chicken industry many years ago, I know that the color of the egg yolks can be controlled by adding carotene to the diet of the chicken, giving you funky patterns around the time when the amount of additive gets changed. Blame it on the mountains, but who knows what these chicken were eating!
Upon my return to the buffet I discover regular bacon (taking 2 strips), farmer sausage (taking 1), frittata (not taken), hash (not taken), mushrooms in cream sauce (taking a spoonful) and rosti (taking a spoonful) at a different station. Farmer sausage? After seeing bison sausage, chicken sausage and pork sausage, the thought of eating farmer sausage seems a bit odd. What kind of meat would go in there? Let's see what a poached egg tastes like around here. I also discover hard-boiled and raw eggs, but neither one strike my fancy right now. The bacon is good, but not very crispy (after sitting on the buffet - here is where a la carte comes in handy!). Mushrooms are delicious. The poached egg is a bit of a disappointment. They had much better poached eggs at the Village Green in Westdale. I guess here they had to make it hard-boiled and let it sit in the water for a long time afterwards for the purpose of the buffet.
I am up for a third round. This time I will get some toasted bread and spreads to round off the meal. I am getting full already, but for the price I want to get stuffed! The toaster for the bread is easy to find. It is starting to accumulate a line-up. While I pick out some slices of rye bread, I watch as the people in front of me keep putting their slices back and back again into the toaster, with marginal effect on the bread. It is one of those contraptions where you put your slice onto a conveyor belt, it gets slowly moved past a series of heating elements, hopefully slow enough that by the time it falls off the conveyor at the back of the oven and slides back to the front at the bottom it is nicely browned. Not so here. They are fiddling with the knobs, but not much changes. Six is the magic number (of passes needed for each slice). When my slices are on their fourth passage, some courageous customer lining up behind me accidentally tweaks the right knob (we can't reproduce which one it was) and they come out nice and tan. The woman behind me has to smile past the fact that I at one point accidentally grabbed her slices instead of mine to put them back on for the next round, but she does not want to start over with new slices either. I loudly compare this whole buffet idea to the state of airline travel in Canada, where everybody has to figure out how to check themselves in at a computer terminal. Good luck finding a human being able to help!
When my toast is finally done I zip by the cold cuts in relief and find the peanut butter in small packages in the display of jams at the far end of Buffet Row. But where is the butter? Well, turns out is was between the cold cuts and the toaster. The toaster now has a serious line, as the Asian tour group has discovered the bread basket. When I return to my table, my cutlery is missing and my waitress has gone missing with it. After quite a while I am successful at hunting down another waitress. She would much rather take care of her own tables, but eventually finds me another knife so I can start preparing my toast. Luckily I can't complain about a lack of coffee refills. My waitress left a thermos with coffee on the table for self-service. The Fairmont started as a railroad hotel, but maybe they are now run by an airline... Eventually my waitress comes by with the bill, but then takes a while again to pick up and process my credit card. When I leave the hotel, sun is now up and I have officially missed the sunrise.
Overall it was a good meal. And I ate a lot. Since it is only 7:30 and it took me less than half an hour to get here, I figure I have plenty of time for a little digestive stroll. I wanted to walk back by the river anyway, and might as well go the other way along the water first to take a look at Bow Falls. It is a beautiful little hike, it feels very peaceful so early in the morning. Reaching the point where one has the full view of the falls is quite impressive indeed. It must have been outright spectacular before they built the big parking lot. Since there is hardly anybody else around this early, it is easy to snatch a spot with the modern infrastructure out of view in the back, to imagine this was total wilderness! Note to self: Next time, come here for the sunrise at the falls. Even now the sky is impressive, the sunrise would be utmost spectacular. Then afterwards, it will be worth going up to The Fairmont to have breakfast. It is almost eight when I leave Bow Falls and I will be late for the meeting again...